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Just looking for tips and suggestions on adjusting the slack of the chain. I've noticed that mine (87 FZR-1000) has got an excessive amount (not to the point where it's going to come off though).<br><br>From what I've read and understood, it's a matter of adjusting the axle nuts until you get the proper tension/slack. I know it's important to make sure the nuts on both sides are even to help keep the rear tire in alignment.<br><br>The only thing I have to go by is a Haynes manual (spare me the comments about Haynes...trust me I know <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ). I don't have the original manuals from Yamaha so it's all I have to work with, so I'm looking for help from you guys.<br><br>I know this is probably second nature to 99% of you guys, but being a first year rider EVERYTHING I do to the bike will be new to me.<br><br>Thanks to all that help out on this. Btw...I did run a search through the entire board and couldn't find anything. If I missed a thread the point me to it. Thanks again guys <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>"I came here to kick ass and chew bubble-gum...<br>and I'm all out of bubble-gum."</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... ionburn</A> at: 6/18/04 5:05 am<br></i>

this is for the fazer 1000 but dont matter since is the same procedure.<br><br><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/chai ... <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--> <p></p><i></i>

Thanks for the link...helps out a lot. <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>"I came here to kick ass and chew bubble-gum...<br>and I'm all out of bubble-gum."</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

good, that place is full of nice info and pics to help us....thanks to him <p></p><i></i>

You really can't use specs from another bike to set your chain tension <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>To set the tension you have to sit on the bike loading the suspension so that the rear wheel spindle, swinging arm spindle and front sprocket are all in a straight line. At this point there should be a small amount of slack in the chain (approx 1 inch total) if you set the chain tension with the bike on the side stand - like my mate did, you stand a very high chance of destroying you output shaft bearings in the gearbox because the chain goes slack either side of the Centre line between all 3 points.<br><br>Mark <p></p><i></i>

It's interesting to see the posts that say "bike on center stand, in neutral, no weight" and those that say "sit on the bike". I really don't know which is correct for most bikes but the 1994 FZR1000 Owner's Manual says "bike on center stand, in neutral, no weight". The FZR1000 Service Manual says "hold bike in upright position, both wheels on ground, without rider on it". The Owner's Manual lists the slack as 10-20mm while the Service Manual lists the slack as 15-20mm. <p></p><i></i>

Ok...well I'm getting ready to tackle this project this weekend. So now ya'll got me confused <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>I can understand the points of each one (as far as having the bike on the ground or in the air). As far as having the bike on the ground, do you get the axle nuts loose then roll the bike forward to shorten the slack and retighten? To me that seems like it would make it more difficult to keep the rear tyre (there you go Pilot <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) in line while you're tightening the nuts up. Like I said this is a first for me so I'm just talking out of my @$$. <br><br>Although it would be more tedious, would it be best to lift the bike up, make the adjustment, lower and check, then raise up again if needed?<br><br>Well, if you guys can shoot me some more tips I'd appreciate it. <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>"I have come here to chew bubble-gum and kick ass...<br>and I'm all out of bubble-gum."</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

You can always call the local Yami dealer and ask them how they do it? <br><br>Tim <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Dir. of Entertainment (eddieandthecrusiersmc.com).</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

I've found that adjusting the chain on the side stand means less error when you tighten the axle again...You know how the chain gets too tight after you tighten the axle?<br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

Nate,<br>To find the spot on the chain with the least amount of slack you can either roll the bike along the ground or lift the rear wheel off the ground. The remaining procedures take place with the bike stationary, both wheels on the ground, bike in neutral.<br>Use the adjusters to tighten or loosen the slack. The adjusters will push the axle towards the end of the swingarm (tighten). If you need more slack, loosen the adjusters and tap the axle, on both sides, with a rubber mallet to move it back towards the front of the swingarm. Then use the adjusters to move the axle back towards the end of the swingarm (tighten). When you have both sides equal distance with the swingarm markers, and the chain slack is correct, tighten the axle nut to proper torque, check the swingarm marks and slack (to make sure nothing moved when you torqued the axle nut, and tighten the adjuster nuts.<br>You can refer to the Haynes manual. It has the same information in it as the Yamaha Service Manual for routine chain adjustment. BTW - if your axle goes to the end of the swingarm marks and the chain slack is still too much - you need a new chain (with a new chain you should also replace the sprockets). <br>Don <p></p><i></i>

First of all...thank for everybody who helped with suggestions. I was nervous about doing this for the first time but quickly realized this is a fairly simple job to do.<br><br>Regarding the little debate we had going about whether the chain should be adusted while the tire is on the ground or in the air I've found there is little difference made to the slack by adjusting it with the tire in the air.<br><br>I got the axle nut loosened with a breaker bar then got the back end up in the air. Spun the rear wheel to check that the chain was good (no kinks, binding, etc). Next I loosened the axle adjusting nuts/bolts at the back of the swingarm. Moved the axle back to the first hatch mark and took measurements again. According to my manual, the recommended slack is between 15-20mm. With the axle at the first hatch mark I was looking at 17mm of slack. Tightened everything back up and dropped her back down and finished by torqueing the axle nut. Measured the slack again and was good. I did notice a slight decrease in slack, but only about 1mm (slack is now between 16-17mm). I am going to to measure again tonight after some riding to make sure the slack is still good and that the axle is still aligned properly with the hatch marks.<br><br>Thanks again to all for the help. <!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/otn ... erchug.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--> <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>"I have come here to chew bubble-gum and kick ass...<br>and I'm all out of bubble-gum."</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

Re:<!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/chai ... <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br>Sorry guy I do not beleive that any motorcycle chain can have nearly 2 inches of slack in the adjustment. Never believe anything you read without double checking. If some poor sucker has taken that seriously they probably only need to buy one boot at time now. Maybe it was the instructions for removing the chain from the rear sprocket!!!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

yes it sound crazy to me too....but that is what the fazer 1000 owner manual says at page 68 for chain slack adjust (on central stand).....checked on the yamaha site just for this...anyway for fzr 1000 the slack is 15-20 mm or 0.6 to 0.8 inch but i think is with rider on. <p></p><i></i>

Looking for some tips from you guys on cleaning and oiling the chain.<br><br>What sort of methods do you use to clean your chain (as far as degreasers, wire brush, etc)?<br><br>Also, any recommendations on a specific brand of chain lube or is there not much of a diff between them all? <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>"I have come here to chew bubble-gum and kick ass...<br>and I'm all out of bubble-gum."</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://members.optusnet.com.au/lanemeye ... karate.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>

<br>To degrease and clean my chain I tend to use "Gunk" and apply it carefully with an old paint brush. This can be time consuming but it is much cheaper (and I think more eco friendly) than using a spray degreaser.<br><br>Lubricants vary and I expect alot will be down to personal preference.<br>I much prefer an oil to wax. Apart from looking like shite, I reckon wax collects shite from the road much more quickly than lube.<br>A good quality chain lube with teflon in it is generally the order of the day although perhaps stay away from Rock Oil chain lube as it seems to coagulate more than others I have tried and collects around the front sprocket. Very unsightly.<br>Another lubing tip I have started trying to employ is to lube my chain at the end of a ride whilst the chain is still warm. This means the lube will adhese to the chain well and avoids you taking off on a ride and coating your plastics, pillion, whatever with oil.<br>As a point of reference I oil my chain every 200 miles and try and clean it once a week.<br><br>H <p></p><i></i>

Thanks, Hiras. Do you just anything else to clean your chain with other than a degreaser? Guy at a shop said to use a wire brush and go over the chain with it. Is that a good idea to do as well? <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>"I have come here to chew bubble-gum and kick ass...<br>and I'm all out of bubble-gum."</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://members.optusnet.com.au/lanemeye ... karate.gif" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--></p><i></i>

<br>I just use a 1" paint brush to apply the Gunk and to be honest, that stuff is so good at removing shite, I don't remember ever having to scrub the chain.<br>I do keep an old plastic washing-up brush for cleaning the rear sprocket and for getting in to those hard to reach areas.<br> <p></p><i></i>

If you do not have the cash ($200) to get a <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.pro-oiler.com/" target="top">Pro-Oiler</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> then use a lithium grease. That is what the chain manufactures use on the new stuff. The Pro-Oiler uses regular oil. Dragracer1951 prompted me into action on this one. I'll be ordering just after the 4th.<br><br> <p>Tim<br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em> Has anyone seen my keys?</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Dir. of Entertainment<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://eddieandthecruisersmc.com" target="top"> Eddie & the Cruisers</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

I generally use a chain cleaner spray (Maxima product) that's a cleaner/degreaser. Safe on alloy, plastics, rubber, etc ... I spray an area, brush with a 3-sided brush that's made for cleaning chains, spray the spot with water, and wipe with a rag. Then move the chain to the next spot and repeat. Chain comes out very clean. After the whole chain is clean I spray a spot with chain lube (Maxima product), wipe with a rag, move the chain to the next spot and repeat. Chain comes out looking like new and does not throw gunk all over the back wheel.<br>Don <p></p><i></i>

I've got a Scottoiler on my bike. It keeps the chain clean, I haven't had to adjust it in 13000 km (seriously), and the back wheel stays cleaner than I ever managed with chainlube, though I was never as careful as Don when applying it. <p></p><i></i>