How do you make fairing molds?

kiwi60 · Post by **kiwi60** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 5:45 pm

Over the weekend Duke22 and I went to the local race track to watch the heros race in the pouring rain, and we got talking about keeping enough spares to keep our bikes on the track for a good few more years, and there is one of the item we can re-manufacture yet.

Over the years I managed to 'collect' the molds for a racing upper fairing and seat, but haven't got them for the side fairings.

We have a good set of fairings, but I lack the knowledge of how to take a mold off them, not so much how to go about it, but more how and where to brace the out side of the mold etc.

If anyone can give me a lesson I'd appreciate it.

Cheers

Post by **FZRDude** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:50 pm

SPOOK to the rescue!!!!!

kiwi60 · Post by **kiwi60** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 12:34 am

SPOOK to the rescue!!!!!

Where is that masked man...?

Yep, I thought he would be the expert in these matters

spook · Post by **spook** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:22 am

I'm going to do a set for myself shortly, ie FZR1000 88. I hate working with this crap as you know, but the price you get charged for set of raceglass forces you to make it yourself and not purchase.

The side panels are pretty simple (one piece) rule of thumb with the moulds is you make them twice the thickness of the piece that you are going to pull out of them. No bracing or the like required.

When I get to the side panels I'll post so we can do it together if you like. Do you have a commercial supplier for materials

you will need the following:

Tooling gel-coat and hardener 1ltr
PVA release agent 500 ml
mould release wax (tin)
4 ltrs acetone
4-5 mtrs of 200 gsm chopstrand mat
4 litres of laminating resin
mekp harder
cups or icecream containers for mixing.

Spray gun and compressor
small angle grinder

You will have to spend a bit, but if you reckon you can handle it you will save alot over a few sets out of your moulds.

Have a go at making a nose cone out of your moulds and see how you go? You will know then whether you are up to it.

SJTFZR1000 · Post by **SJTFZR1000** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:10 am

hi guys

ive just about finished moulding 2 sets for my fzr1000 1990 model,i know what u mean by this stuff spook.(sticks to everything)air bubbles are my big problem,even with a ribbed roller,an old fibreglasser m8 told me that you cant rush when u fibreglass,he is right,i think that is another problem of mine .i will put some pics up soon.mine are a bit rough but with the amount of stacks that i have no one will know how rough they are.lol.i just got 450gpm x 10 meters of chopped mat for $40.00 aus from ebay,i was paying 7.50 a meter for 300gpm chopped mat in town

spook · Post by **spook** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 5:29 pm

The reason I suggested 200gsm mat up above is that it is easier to work the resin through. You are going to struggle with the heavier 400gsm, both getting the air out but also getting it to conform to the mould shape. Heavy matting tends to spring away from the mould contours hence the air pockets etc on radius's. Two layers of 200 will be far easier to do, and less frustrating to use. Some heavier mats will split down the middle effectively halving the mat into two sheets. If you can get it to do that I would

Also, Keep in mind this stuff (especially when sanding) is really bad for you.

When sanded you have glass shards in resin suspension floating around.

That's why it itches when in contact with the skin... Imagine what it is doing to your lungs. It is worse for you than asbestos. No Joke... protect yourself!

Get yourself a proper respirator and always wear it while sanding, cutting or working with this stuff. Also those one piece disposable overalls you buy for a couple of dollars are great for keeping the crap of your clothes and skin as well. I have a large box of disposable gloves as well

Show us what you have made!

kiwi60 · Post by **kiwi60** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:20 am

All good stuff, keep it coming

SJTFZR1000 · Post by **SJTFZR1000** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:33 am

here are a few pics of some fairing pieces i did last week
these are catch trays

these are 2 l/hand and 2 r/hand side panels

this top fairing is still in the mould and needs some more fibreglass

ihis top fairing has just had a second coad of fibreglass

a bit rough now but a trim some bog and paint and they will be ready to go.

SJTFZR1000 · Post by **SJTFZR1000** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:49 am

thanks spook for the info.as you can see from some of the pics this is the second lot of fairings i have had a go at and it is a bit easier the second time around.spook have you ever used the tissue fibreglass cloth m8?i was thinking of giving it a go to try to get rid iof the bubbles in the first layer or two?i have just been useing a coat of fibreglass resin for the gelcoat as the fairings dont have to be a perfect specimen.
i ran out of the pvc release stuff a while back and found out i could use extra hold hair spray,its the wifes as i have no hair....lol.

kiwi this is the stuff i use for making my fairings,minus the safey gear which i was wearing.the more you play with this sticky stuff the easier it gets,im no professional so if i can do it you can.

1st row we have from left....mold release wax/pva mould release liquid/hair spray/a bit of chopped mat fibreglass.
2nd row fibreglass resin/rubber gloves/resin hrardener/air bubble roller,compactor/a bit of woven cloth fibreglass
3rd row assorted cheap paint brushes and a resin container with a measure on the side...the only thing missing is the measurer i use to put the hardener into the resin..it is about 26 degrees here tonight....i added to 400 mls of resin a7 mls of hardener and that gave me about 30 minutes to get the fibreglass wet and ionto the mold.

dont rush too much...

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 2:31 pm

As Spook had mentioned regarding protecting yourself Kiwi, I will ditto that recommendation and also raise a protect your eyes as well as your eyes and any dust that might make it in them can reek havoc.

If you'd like to give me a call on this stuff feel free too, but it looks like you've got a lot of the help you need already.

Cheers and Merry Christmas my friend.

spook · Post by **spook** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 5:39 pm

SJTFZR1000 wrote: have just been useing a coat of fibreglass resin for the gelcoat as the fairings dont have to be a perfect specimen.

Sweet, making some progress

I really suggest you think about using gel-coat. You will notice that it is a lot thicker than the resin. Gelcoat will create a bit of a barrier between the mould and first layer of glass, and hence leaving a lot of the small air bubbles far enough from the surface to not matter. Gel also sands a lot easier than resin as it is part filler as is primer.

I haven't used tissue, but a lighter first layer will be easier to deal with for sure. I only use chop strand for moulds, woven for fairings.

kiwi60 · Post by **kiwi60** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:54 pm

here are a few pics of some fairing pieces i did last week

Can you post some pictures of your molds as well?

SJTFZR1000 · Post by **SJTFZR1000** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:10 am

there ya go kiwi....i took these moulds of the original fairings so you can still see the exup brotherhood sticker imprint....

r/hand side

l/hand side

catch tray,i made this one in a wheelbarrow of sand fron the kids sand pit

and the top fairing...got this one done profesionaly so i could see how it was done then did all the other moulds myself.hope all this helps m8 and will see ya at the island classic...

kiwi60 · Post by **kiwi60** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 1:10 am

hope all this helps m8 and will see ya at the island classic...

Certainly does, thanks, but you won't see me at tha island classis this time, I've hung up the helmet after one 'get off' too many, and my rider wants to complete the local series this year.

Duke22 WILL be at the island classic with his FZR990 (750 bottom and and EXUP 1040 barrels) plus a spare motor just in case.
He did it last year on is Kwaka H1R and is gagging to get back there on a bike that actually goes round corners

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 2:51 pm

You can also make molds from polystyrene foam Kiwi. A bit easier for the lay person, in my opinion anyways.

kiwi60 · Post by **kiwi60** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 4:17 pm

You can also make molds from polystyrene foam Kiwi. A bit easier for the lay person, in my opinion anyways.

Hmm, interesting, do tell me more Michael

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Sun Dec 11, 2011 4:23 pm

Like STJFZR said about the belly pan mold being cast in sand, the methods would be quite similar, only instead of sand you are using foam.

Wrap the fairing you want to mold in the kind of plastic window film you place over drafty windows in the winter, not sure if you need such stuff where you're from though Kiwi. Around a very complex surface you will not be able to use one entire sheet more than likely and will need to start with the smaller & more complex areas. If you're feeling lucky you could try release agent or vaseline petroleum jelly. The window wrap stuff is in essence just like shrink wrap and can be heated so that there are absolutely no creases or lines whatsoever. Once the fairing you wish to make a mold of has been completely covered with said wrap. Spray the piss out of it with canned expanding foam, different types of foams will be up to what type of job you want to get. Less expanding foam is denser and will have less airbubbles which will lead to a smooter finish and the hugely expanding forshizel has airbubbles O' Plenty. Can't stress the "go slow" advice STJFZR gave, and make sure you spend good money on proper respitory and eyw protection. Even if you are only using this stuff once, it's worth it. FG is nasty ass shit and CF is even worse.

Hope this helps some Kiwi

SJTFZR1000 · Post by **SJTFZR1000** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 6:30 am

there ya go kiwi fairings have all been trimmed up and ready for undercoad and filler

shed is a mess and now full of fibreglass dust,will have to be blown out before pain ting can begin..will keep you up to date m8.

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:30 am

Those look great SJT,

What is the weight of the final products in relation to the stock fairings?

spook · Post by **spook** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 8:03 pm

looking good!

Saved yourself 1500 dollars there! Worth the sweat and the itching for sure