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I work as an engineer at a company that's been recently swallowed up by a big pnumatics/hydraulics conglomerate and we are going through the assimilation process<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START 0] --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/alien.gif ALT="0]"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Drag...

I've gotten curious about possibly doing this upgrade myself, so I did a little investigation. I checked my 98 R1 manual to review the wiring diagram and the check on all the sensors that feed information in. The following are what I've come up with:<br><br>temp sensor - variable resistance, feeds d...

Thanks guys,<br><br>It's what I came up with after making a bunch of photocopies of the Yahamaha shop manual cover and going crazy with coloring pencils. I acually painted it in my basement after sealing off the the back corner near the hatchway and pumping fresh air through filters using a couple o...

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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/flyingcircus68/000_0037.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/flyingcircus68/000_0036.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="htt...

The color code is based on the numbers that you find on the left hand side of the crank and on the back of the upper half of the crankcase. The five digit numbers are for the main journals of the crank, and the 4 digit is for the con. rod pins.<br><br>the main journal bearings are determeined by:<br...

I heard of people mentioning it on the R1 forum. It's just a circuit that fools the ignitor into thinking that a motor is still moving the pot to its target position (measured voltage). I'ts pretty easy to do, and I would be in the market, if I thought there would be enough money to be worthwile.<!-...

That's a kick ass time - if it's normally aspirated. I'm sure that you had to do some chassis mods too. BTW, have you been able to do the measurement for me? <p></p><i></i>

the springs are fairly light, so you could use just muscle to compress them. When the piston is at tdc, there is very little room for the valve to drop. I've done it this way in the frame and it was a fairly painless process. Of course, I had to make a special tool that allowed me to compress and re...

Before you fiddle with the mixture, verify that it's not another problem. valve clearance, ignition system, emulsion tubes, float height, etc. There is plenty of info in related threads, so read and investigate. <p></p><i></i>

If it's any consolation to you, the last two back tires on my R1 had to be changed due to punctures. The first time it felt squirrelly while doing 100 on the highway. I took the exit gingerly and eased to the stop sign. When I stopped and looked back it was sitting flat on the rim and the rubber was...

I just want to say that the above is not my statement, nor do I endorse the view point it conveys. For the record, I'm very open to any comments about HTML and I fee that we should switch the topic of this thread to give HTML the respect that is long overdue.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hijack --><img...

Well,<br>I googled around and stumbled on a break in summary from various mfgs: <br><br><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/pad_rotor_bedin_procedures.html">www.tirerack.com/brakes/t...dures.html</a><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br><br>definitely a wide range of rec...

The main thing is not to introduce a lot of heat before they bed in to prevent glazing. I may be erring on the conservative side by doing this, but the results have been good. The thought of bedding pads in from 60 mph makes me cringe because of the heat being generated. I guess the thing to do is t...

I usually go down a fairly desolate road at around 20 mph and break heavily to a stop a few times. I haven't seen any studies on this, so I kinda based this on machining practices. Surface speed generates heats and therefore I reasoned that the slow speed would prevent glazing. I figured that combin...

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If you're burning oil, leaning will help keep the plugs clean, but that is not the solution. Check your plug threads. if they are oily, fix that problem first. If not, then it's probably a jetting problem and you could play with the pilot jet or fuel level to lean out off idle. <p></p><i></i>

If they are tightening up on you, it's due to valve/seat wear (recession) being greater than the wear at the lifter/cam lobe.<br><br>Do you know the history of this bike since new? Most of that type of wear happens during break in and it should have been checked by the dealer. <br><br>I wouldn't wor...

OH!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Now that you mention it, it makes sense. the air velocity does impart a load and would force the needle toward the intake manifold. <p></p><i></i>

No, sorry about the confusion, but what I'm actually looking for is the measured angle from perfectly vertical. I checked mine with a machinist protractor and they are 9 deg. from vertical. <p></p><i></i>